Hunting Migaloo the albino humpback

As a volunteer at the dive shop I obviously don´t get any money, but there are some perks to the job. I can dive for free if there is room on the boat and sometimes I am needed as deckhand on the whale watching trips the dive shop offers. As was the case last Friday.

We launched the boat of the beach at a part of the cape called The Pass. We get the people on board, push the boat out a bit further and break through the surf on the two big 100hp engines at the back. The drill is to drive the boat about half way down the bay, where it is less windy and the skipper can have his little talk.

Whilst the captain is talking about the whales, the different species and their migration route I stand on the back looking out for signs of our targets, Humpback whales.

I saw a few spouts on the horizon. When the whales exhale the warm air condensates and forms a plume of about 4 to 5 meters high, which is called a spout. As soon as the captain was don with his talk I pointed him in the direction I saw the whales and off we were.

We passed Julian Rock’s, a marine reserve where the diving in Byron Bay takes place, and headed further out to sea. By law we have to keep a distance of a 100 meters to the whales and 300 meters if there is a calf present. Luckily for us humpback whales are very inquisitive and the often come to the boat to check us out. 2 individuals surfaced just 30 meters from our boat. They just came to have a look at the humans as they were migrating to their breeding grounds in the warm waters around the Great Barrier Reef. Their distinct dorsal fins just briefly breaching the surface accompanied by the hissing noise of them ex- and inhaling.

Off course it is a very cool sight to see whales so close to the boat, but I wasn’t impressed quite yet. In the distance we saw some whales breaching (jumping out of the water) and plowed the boat through the waves in their direction in the hope to see it up close.

As you might expect as soon as we reached their location they stopped breaching, but we did get treated to some fin slapping. The whale will lie on its side at the surface and slap his or hers distinct white pectoral fin on the surface. The loud thud implies the force they use to do this and I can be heard underwater for several kilometers. The display lasted for about 15 minutes and was very impressive.
The whales decided it was time to go. That was fine with me since it is the only way to see that signature tail rise over the water and disappear into the deep blue. I’ve seen lots of documentaries on marine life and whales but none of them do justice to seeing one 30 meters away.
The captain had us keep an eye out for Migaloo. The only albino humpback whale in the world. It has been spotted in these waters before, but didn’t show his all white face this day.
As a cherry on top we lowered a hydrophone into the water to listen to the whale’s song. They are not just noises. It is an actual song with choruses and verses which lasts about 20 minutes. Only the boys do the singing in the whale world. They hang vertically in the water and take to the stage with a song that can be heard for miles.
Maybe Migaloo will sing for us the next time around.

Alien and awesome

I’ve been in Australia for almost a month now and I am getting more and more used to living down under. I especially enjoy the moments when I encounter something completely new or weird down here.

First of all the wild life. There are birds everywhere. The carry names like Magpie, black kite, kookaburra and the brush turkey. White Ibis in every park searching for food. Loorakeets, parrots, ospreys and eagles. All with their own unique weird ass sound. One sounds like an alarm clock, another sounds like a goat! I have now idea which ones make which sound, but I think it is amazing. Just walking though the Arakwal National Park I hear the birds warning their mates as I approach. It is like an orchestra that moves with you, like every tree has his own musician.

In the morning when I go to work I see these white birds with grey wings, long legs and a short yellow beak. No one I’ve asked so far seems to know what they are called. When another bird of the same kind approaches a standoff takes place. They size each other up, flap their wings and slowly walk in a circle around each other. I don’t know how they decide who the king of the lawn is, but it looks awesome.

What freaks me out the most I guess would be driving on the left side of the road. I’m really struggling with that. I look the wrong way when crossing a street, when there is no other traffic I tend to keep right and the roundabouts are just mind boggling to me. I hope I get the hang of it soon, because I feel I’m an accident waiting to happen.

Also a good thing to know is they don’t have regular coffee here in Oz. It took me about 5 minutes arguing with this lady to figure out what a ‘regular coffee’ is. To me regular would be just coffee. No milk or foam or any other additive. Just coffee. Sounds logical right? But no, normal would be a cappuccino or a Latte with soy milk. If you just want coffee order a Long Black. It is not really a ‘regular’ coffee, but an espresso which they add water to. Don’t get me wrong it taste great, it just doesn’t make any sense to me.

Aussies like to abbreviate everything. Woolworths becomes woolies, sunglasses become sunnies, afternoon is abbreviated: arvo. I is so funny to whenever I end up not understanding someone because of slang or abbreviations. I thought I understood English, but I’m learning every day here and I love it.

Apparently there is quite an alcohol problem in Oz and one of the laws in Byron Bay is that they can not serve shots after midnight. It turns out that a nice glass of whisky is considered a shot. I was flabbergasted when the bartender told me. I guess I just have to resort to a nice bottle at home instead of enjoying some scotch on a night out.

Busking (street performing) is a legit way to make some extra cash in Byron Bay. So on every corner there is live music. Some are more talented then others, but live music everywhere nonetheless. Usually they are weird and colorful characters. It makes the entire town so much more alive and it I joy just strolling down the street.

I can go on and on about all the stuff that seems weird to me. I don’t recognize the night sky for example and yes the water does swirl down the drain in the opposite direction. Every day I learn something new, see something new and meet new weird people. Everything is very alien to me and I think it’s awesome.  

Byron Bay Lighthouse

Cape Byron Light

Byron Bay happens to have the most powerful lighthouse in the country. Built in 1901, the beautiful white structure sits at the top of Cape Byron marking the most easterly point of mainland Australia. From one of the smaller beaches surrounding the cape, Watego’s Beach, a beautiful trail/stairs lead up to the lighthouse. It is not just the lighthouse and the view from the top that make it worth working up a sweat getting there.

At Watego’s beach among other places there are public barbecues  Just hold the button until the light comes on and you have a hot plate for the next 20 minutes. Ideal to serve as home base when you chill at the beach or venture out into the park.

The Cape is part of the Cape Byron Marine Park and is home to a wide variety of plants and animals. When walking up the trail towards the top you really feel you’re in the jungle. Palms, ferns, tea trees and much more line hill side while on the other side stunning views of the bay, beaches and ocean can be seen.

After every minute walking or so the vegetation opens up to reveal beautiful sneak peeks of the surroundings.  I had to stop every time to take in the view and try to capture it on camera. With my used and abused point and shoot camera that is very hard to do, so I would recommend to just come visit and experience the beauty for yourself.

About half way up, the trail splits. To the right the trail leads on to the top. To the left it leads to a lookout point which is probably the best place to be if you want to spot some whales and dolphins which are passing by close to shore on their way to the warm waters of the Great Barrier Reef in the north to mate. It is literally the easternmost point of mainland Australia. Except for the cape behind you there is only ocean so be seen in every direction. The waves crash onto the rocks with great force. It definitely gives you that salty ocean spray experience.

The lighthouse itself is a small sturdy looking building as bright as the light it emits. Completely white it definitely stands out among the green vegetation and black and brown rock faces. Sunset is the time you want to be there. It is a beautiful sight to see the sun disappear behind the mountains of the Great Dividing Range. It bathes the bay and its golden beaches in a warm orange light. The last sun rays bounce off of the water transforming it from blue into silver. The best view however is not to the east, but to the west. The light of the setting sun illuminates the clouds over the Pacific Ocean. It looks like they are on fire. All ranges of red, orange and yellow projected on virgin white clouds hovering over a dark blue ocean.

The way down is easy and effortless. Especially since your mind is still wondering off, remembering the clouds ablaze. 

Arakwal Adventure

 It was a Sunday and every Sunday the crew at the dive shop get some money from the boss to go get some food and drinks. Mostly it results in lots and lots of steak for on the barbeque, some salad and a few trays of beer. The beer of choice on this particular Sunday was Breda Beer. Brewed in Breda, The Netherlands, but apparently only sold in Australia. (like Hooten Beer, brewed in Maarssen sold in Sydney).

But I’m getting off track here. On this Sunday it happened to be a full moon and some people I’d just met (which is pretty much everyone) told me there was a party on the beach with a big fire. I envisioned an enormous bon fire on a deserted beach, people dancing to the beat of a djembe and guitar someone brought and knows how to play. We would party till the early hours until the sun came up whilst Humpback Whales did their amazing jumps just a few meters from shore. Unfortunately it didn’t exactly work out like that.

The full moon super-duper beach party was close to where I was staying. So instead of walking with my new found friends I told them, “Go ahead. I’ll put my bike away at home and follow this trail I know to the beach and walk down till I see you guys.” It sounded like a proper plan at the time.

So I parked my bike and followed this sandy trail that cuts through Arakwal National park. It is a beautiful densely grown forest that forms a natural barrier which protects the inland from the ocean. It is filled with birds, snakes, possums, rats, bats and god knows what other kind of animals. I’m pretty sure the park ranger knows as well, but I neglected to ask him. Armed with just a flashlight I reached the beach only to find the tide super high (damn full moon) and there was no way for me to walk down the beach without being swiped away into the dark pacific ocean.

I back tracked a bit till I noticed another trail parallel to the beach. I thought to myself: ‘if I follow this one I’m sure to find the others’. I was still under the assumption there would be a huge fire and lots of sound and laughter, which is generally easy to locate. Turned out that trail I noticed was probably an old trail they stopped maintaining. After 10 minutes  of walking through this jungle I hit a dead end. I was completely alone. I could hear the ocean and some birds, but no voices or djembe sounds. I stopped to listen. That was a mistake. Instead of hearing humans all I heard was the sound of ‘bigger’ animals rummaging through the bush around me. I told myself: “You’re the biggest animal around here, they are afraid of you.” I know I’m probably right, but In Australia where everything is either poisonous or deadly in some way it was hard to convince myself.

I found my way back to where I had started without getting killed and decided to go back where I had parted from the rest of the crew and try form there. Since we’ve just met I didn’t have anyone phone number I could call for directions. After walking up and down streets for 45 minutes and repeating the ‘take the wrong trail into nowhere trick’ for a second time I bumped into three Spaniards that looked like they new where they were going. Nouria, Mariana and Bruno became my best friends the instant I learned they were heading to this full moon party on the beach. It felt like they saved me from the clutches of the dark Arakwal forest out to confuse lone hikers in the middle of the night and make them disappear forever.

Turned out the party turned out to be a random gathering of random people around a fire constantly fighting the moisture in the drift wood it was feeding on and the strong winds blowing in from the ocean. It was pretty overcast too, so the full moon was to be seen exactly three times when clouds parted briefly. Luckily I had an adventure not that long ago. 

Voluntarily cold...

Since it is low season here in Byron Bay it is quite difficult to get a job. I don’t want to hang on the beach all day or drag myself through town. I need to stay busy, do something, anything. So I started working as a volunteer at one of the dive shops in town. At the Byron Bay Dive Centre to be exact (www.byronbaydivecentre.com.au).

They use a lot of volunteers at the dive shop. Mostly beginning to advanced divers who want to get more experience and are willing to work for just free dives and after a while free accommodation, which is conveniently located above the dive shop.

I had to fill out all the necessary paperwork and read through a ‘crewpack’ as they called it. It stated their philosophy, the way they run their operation and what was expected of me. It looked all very professional and that gave me a reassuring feeling. Back in Curacao I was used to a minimum level of professionalism and service and it seemed that this shop had that as well.

Turns out, it has more to do with liability and health and safety regulations than anything else. There was no proper training or introduction. Just learn as you go. Volunteers that just arrived a week before me had to explain how things worked and what the routine was. Of course that is not a problem and everything went fine, but because of the ‘official’ intake I had somewhat other expectations.

The service towards the costumers, which I expected to be high, was almost non-exciting. Most of the crew ignored them and an explanation about what was the plan for the day was barely given. The skipper gave the dive briefing, which struck me as odd, since the skipper is not in the water with the guests. Maybe this is just how they operate in Australia. Or maybe just this particular dive shop, I have yet to find out. Or perhaps I am corrupted/spoiled by Ocean Encounters and every dive shop I work at after them will seem unorganized and chaotic to me. The atmosphere is great though and the guests didn’t seem to mind. Perhaps it is just my perception that needs some altering.

Byron Bay Dive Centre (BBDC) has three super rhib boats they take out for diving, snorkeling and whale watching. They each hold about 12 people, although the one named Bay Runner can hold up to 20. We took the smaller Cape Runner.

Guests are transported via minivan to the beach. The rest of the crew take the truck with the trailer and are off to launch to boat off the beach.

It was quite the fight to keep the boat in the right direction while waiting for the skipper to return, who had to park the car and trailer. Big waves crash into the stern of the boat just moments after they were ridden by the ever present surfers at ‘The Pass’. A rock outcropping at Cape Byron with a lookout on top to spot whales or watch the surfers.

After everyone was onboard, we races through the surf towards Julian Rocks. A small marine reserve in the middle of the bay in front of Main Beach (http://www.julianrocks.net/). We moored at one of the buoys at the dive site called The Nursery. It lies on the protected leeward side of the rock outcroppings that make up Julian Rocks and is the perfect spot for smaller sea creatures to mature before venturing out into the Pacific Ocean. We quickly slid into our gear and did a back roll into the water. Even though I was wearing a full body 5MM wetsuit the water shocked me a little. It was ‘only’ 20 degrees Celsius and felt cold. The cold aside it did feel real good being in the water again. A bit like I’ve never left it. The dive was led by a German girl called Johanna, which had a striking resemblance to Heidi Klum. So following the dive leader came with ease.

I wasn’t that impressed by the dive site at first. Not a lot of corals, a few sponges scattered over the site and some anemones tucked away in cracks in the rocks. But after a better look, that all changed. Small tropical fish darting in and out nooks and crannies. Clown fish fiercely defending their anemones against dangers only they perceived. Some many Porcupine fish it looked like they were schooling. Big Blue Groper and Black Rock Cod cruising the trenches. Life in abundance.

Till this dive my shark count was stuck sadly at zero. But a quick headcount in the first 10 minutes of the dive changes that to about 25! All species of Wobbegong shark that is found here were present. Hales, Spotted and Ornate Wobbegong sharks (Wobbys) were all over the place. They are also known as carpet sharks, since they lie on the bottom mostly and have lobes on the side of their face which to me looked a bit like a shaggy carpet.

These very docile species aren’t regarded as ‘real’ sharks by most divers and I can relate. But when I wasn’t paying attention and thought to myself how cold I was I saw it. A big grey shadow disappearing behind a rock. I followed it and there she was. A beautiful Grey Nurse Shark about 1,5 meters long. They have that pointy snout and grim scary appearance, but are very docile. Like a big cage fighter that turns out to volunteer at a petting zoo.

It was my first ‘real’ shark and it was an amazing sight. I did not feel scared or anxious at all. The feeling of wonder and respect pushed the cold away for a while and right at the moment the cold was taking over, another one. This time very close. It was coming right at me and passed me in opposite direction just 1 meter away from me. Being next to the animal gave me good indication of how big this shark was. It was about 2 meters long with a fat body and lean face. It was absolutely beautiful.

It was time to back on the boat, but not before we saw a Spotted Eagle ray, Green Turtle and Spiny Lobster. Although the surroundings at Julian Rocks are not that much to look at and the dive site not very big either, there is a lot of cool stuff down there and I did thoroughly enjoy my dive.

I might go down there a few more times, but then it is time to move up north. I was freezing during and after the dive. I appreciate the opportunity to dive here for free while volunteering, but I refuse to be voluntarily cold. I might actually refuse to be cold if I get paid. The Caribbean really messed me up.

Euphoria at 120 Mph

I decided not to make it a late night even though I was in the company of two lovely Italian ladies at one of the bars in Byron Bay. I had to be fresh, awake, sharp. Still the alarm came as a shock. I looked at my phone, 6.15 am, time to get up. It gave me just enough time to snooze and a quick shower and some breakfast.

The van, plastered with stickers shouting Skydiving Byron Bay, pulled up at 7.15 am. The driver introduced himself as Rob, he was a short fellow that reminded me of my friend Adriaan back on Curacao and he was in very good spirits. Apparently I was the first one on his list since the van was empty. It could hold about 11 people, which turned out to be the amount of people joining me for this early morning adventure.

We drove for about ten minutes after the last pick up to the drop zone. This is where www.australiaskydiving.com.au has their Byron Bay facility. After doing some necessary paperwork, were you sign your life away and such, it was time to gear up.

The operation worked as a well-oiled machine. Six of us got called forward. Crewmembers were waiting to hoist us in a harness after we putt on some real skydiving pants, which were very similar to ski pants I must say.

A lovely girl from Spain helped me into my harness. “Squat a little when I tighten this”, she said with her cute accent whilst tightening the straps at my groin. “It needs to be comfortable on the way down”. I assumed that she would be my instructor too, but as they say: assume makes an ass of u and me. Turned out my instructor was a big guy called Stu.

As a group we got introduced to the finer arts of leaving an airplane not using the accustomed methods. “Cling your feet to the bottom of the plane. Tilt your head up and hold on to the harness with both hands. Arch your back like a banana. When you feel a tap on the shoulder spread your arms, smile and enjoy”, another instructor explained to us. We practiced it on the floor, but only once. The plane had been fired up and it was time to take to the skies.

We sat, in front of our designated instructors, on foam pillows like they were saddles. It was quite cramped, but that gave it a cozy feel and the reassuring feeling that you weren’t by yourself. The view was amazing as we climbed to 14.000 ft/4267 mtrs. The Great Dividing Range in the distance with its sharp summits. Green rolling hills between the mountains and the ocean. Covered in patches like a quilt in different shades of green and brown. Hundreds of small streams and creeks snaking through the landscape. Below was the beautiful clear blue ocean lined with golden beaches with white fringes as the waves broke on the shore. Stu told me it was too early to spot whales as that would have been the cherry on top this already incredible cake.

An orange flashing light jerked me back into reality. The sign below it read: ½ mile. Stu ran the exit strategy by me once more. He told me to relax a couple of times. I’m not sure if I gave of a nervous vibe, but I could definitely feel a healthy tension in my body. I mean, I was about to jump out of an airplane for the first time on my life.

I was caught up with the view and the inevitable jump I had forgotten that the plane was moving forward at quite a high speed. I got reminded as my predecessors jumped out and were gone just like that. Like a cigarette bud you flick out the window of a moving car. One moment it is there, the next moment it is gone.

It want so fast. Stu and I moved to the door. I ‘bananashaped’ myself as best I could and we were of. We tumbled for a few seconds and them we were horizontal. Stu tapped me on the shoulder and I spread my arms. I was shouting like a mad man and smiling at the same time. Never would have thought that falling towards the earth at a 120 mph would be such a great experience. Stu did some spins which gave me a beautiful 360 view of the area. I don’t remember taking in much of the view, the adrenaline racing through every fiber of my body didn’t allow for a relaxing intake of the scenery. Although the free fall lasted for only 60 seconds it surprised me how long it took for this particular minute to pass.

It was over just like that. The parachute opened and the violent fall turned into a gentle glide in seconds. Stu passed me the handles, “you’re flying now”, he said. I pulled down on the left rope and we turned sharply. We were almost horizontal with the shute and I got look into it. “whoa, easy”, Stu said. I couldn’t get enough pulled the right side and we spun to the other side. It was a very smooth ride back down and a very smooth landing. Once on the ground I wanted to go back up right away, I didn’t want it to be over so soon.

It was good to be able to talk with my fellow skydive virgins, who just popped their proverbial cherry. We all wanted to talk, but no one was able to really grasp what just happened to us. Everyone was smiling ear to ear, me included and that smile wasn’t going anywhere soon. We waited for our videos and pictures while we watched with envy as other skydivers came gliding in. it was an amazing experience and Australia Skydive gave me a safe and thrilling ride.

It is hard to describe the feeling. I liked the free fall part better than the glide down. Just the wind rushing past your face and the adrenaline rushing through your body. At that moment there is absolutely nothing on your mind but a sense freedom. It was pure euphoria at 120 mph.

Byron bay at a glance

It was like taking the bus to work. Just an hour flight from Sydney to Byron Bay. Through Jetstar I was able to get a god deal. Just $79 including luggage. That is definitely something to be aware off when travelling by plane here. Because so many people actually take the plane as ‘the bus to work’ just carry-on luggage is included, and adding the luggage afterwards can be very costly.

A short bus ride with a shuttle bus took me from Ballina (where the airport is) to Byron Bay. I got dropped off at ‘the bus stop’, which is right across from where Maya works. It is a travel agency called Backpackers World Travel. She run the shop and knows all about traveling Australia. Definitely a good contact to have.

Maya had to go to a gathering of other travel agents in this bar called The Station. It was supposed to be a training night, which means getting familiar with a new product (hotel/trip/activity), but it turned out to be just having drinks. I tagged along and Maya introduced me to her colleagues/competition. It was a very fruitful night. I got to know a few new people, got offered a room, a free night at EMUS beach resort in Rockhampton and a potential job offer. I guess things move really fast if you get to know the right people.

Maya had to work the next day and I was still recovering from the jetlag and traveling in general. It resulted in going home relatively early. Maya lives on a holiday resort called Oasis. The apartment I get to call home for the next two weeks is awesome. Just a narrow stretch of the Arakwal national park lies between me and the beach. I can hear and see the ocean from the balcony whilst all these to me alien looking birds pass by making even weirder sounds.

I slept in and after having breakfast I went out to discover the resort first. 2 tennis courts, a heated swimming pool and a gym are on the premises. I headed out towards downtown. Byron Bay is a small town of about 9000 people. In the summer apparently the population explodes with the arrival of surfers, hippie and backpackers.

You have a lot of those around here. I still have to get used to that. I don’t mind surfers or backpackers, but hippies get on my nerve. I’m sure they are all very nice people. Open, easy going, loving. The things that you want to find in every person. But hippies also are lazy, don’t contribute to the society they are part of and have poor personal hygiene. If a black person has dreadlocks it is or there belief (Rastafarian) or the choice of hairdo which fits a black guy or girl. If a white person has dreadlocks it is nothing more than lack of shampoo. (Sorry if I’ve offended someone, this is just my humble opinion). I’m drifting off here.

The, so far, best thing about Byron are the beaches. A long seclude one called: Tallow beach. The Main beach and Belongil beach. Beautiful long beaches very suited for long walks or morning runs. Living on Curacao gave me my fair share of beach time. But a long beach to have a nice relaxing walk on is priceless. A cool breeze carrying the smell of the ocean flies past. The sound of waves breaking. Surfers trying to ride those same waves. Like every step is a first one, since the ocean washes away the ones you’ve just made. It is a beautiful place and I can see why so many people come down here.

I made my way up this rock, called The Pass. It is cut off from the main land during high tide. A lookout on top gives a cool view of the surf and an overview of the bay on your left and Cape Byron on the right. This time of year is also the season for humpback whales to pass by here. I haven’t seen any so far, but can’t wait. One of Maya co-workers told me he saw three adults jumping out of the water just yesterday. What a sight that must have been.

I can’t wait for Sunday to arrive. I have booked a skydive! Maya hooked me up with a good deal for the jump and photos and video of the jump. I am so excited. 14,000ft and a full 60 sec free fall over the bay. Wicked!

On day two in Byron I discovered the national park a bit. It is not very big and I did not see any weird animals. Maya warned me to look out for snakes. If I’d see a snake I should stay still and wait until the snake moves away. “Most of the snakes you’ll will be small constrictors, like pythons. Nothing to worry about. But if you see a brown one, don’t wait. Just move”, she said. Turns out the brown snake is one of the most poisonous snakes in Australia. Better watch my step.

Since it is low season in Byron it is hard to get a job. They are not hiring at any of the dive shops, but I do get to volunteer at the Byron Bay Dive Centre. I should swing by on Monday again. They always need dive crew and for me it is a good way to get wet again and do some free diving. Also this will probably result in my first shark encounter ever! Too bad I don’t have underwater camera, but if I see one, I’ll try to be very descriptive. Sharks rule!!

Maya left this morning on vacation to Sri Lanka. I’m watching her apartment until she comes back. It feels a bit weird. Like I am alone again, yet I don’t feel lonely.

There are so many people here that are traveling, just like me. So contacts are easily made.

I’ve also been thinking about changing the purpose of my other blog. The plan was to interview locals and use their portraits as a travel guide. I might still do that, but maybe not online and bundle it or publish hat later. I think I should cater more to the backpackers. Write short stories about places I’ve been and how to get around. Review hostels and travel agencies. This way I get more hits on my page and a bigger chance of making money with it. It also gives me bigger chances of getting free accommodation and perks since people want a positive review. (I know that is abusing journalism a bit, but if you don’t have the money use your wits). So Faces of OZ might change. Even the name, so it’s get googled sooner. Let me know what you think.